$18 Stuffed Quail Gumbo at Restaurant R'evolution in New Orleans — The Meat Show

Published by Darron Toy on



so I'm here off Bourbon Street I am going to go to one of the classiest places around restaurant revolution in the Royal Sonesta Hotel to try a dish called death by gumbo tell me all about death by gumbo okay well it's kind of complicated you know there's a few different elements involved there's the actual gumbo base which it starts with a traditional dark Roux so you need some smoke and hot oil and you're gonna add your flour and you're gonna keep whisking that it takes sometimes up to about 20 minutes depending how large the batch is to get that nice dark brown chocolate nutty roux and you're gonna add your Trinity which is just typical of any gumbo the Trinity consists of celery onions bell pepper that's the Trinity and then garlic being the Pope's I mean it's just the smidgen b-behind being burnt exactly and that's what you're really going for is sort of right up to the edge of just at that edge and literally it's just in seconds it'll be burnt so is this a Cajun or Creole gumbo this this is a Cajun gumbo that we're doing here so there's meat absolutely show all about smoked meats so in the process of while we're making our roux we also have our stock going which has been we use a chicken stock base but we fortify it with all the little quail bits parts and pieces that are left over from the stuffed quail as well as duck bones chicken bones whatever we might have in house you're really extracting all of the flavor probably smoky flavors from housemate ah so to any smoked sausage leftover tidbits of bacon all that deliciousness goes in that stock I was gonna say there's that sheen on it right and it's created from the oil that is inside the roof that's your basic very traditional gumbo we're not we're not like reinventing the wheel here it's very simple but you are adding a significant complexity to the dish we are and that begins with really the quail so what we do is we take this beautiful little fat quail whose semi-boneless already and we cook off some white rice and we're gonna season that white rice with a little chopped parsley some sliced scallions and the feel a powder that's really really a huge element to the flavor component really Patek that's very popular in New Orleans cooking absolutely so feel a comes from the sassafras tree and it from the ground the grinding of the dried leaves it's actually used as a thickening agent brought to us from the Choctaw Indians introduced to us as one of the seven nations being the Native Americans that's how it was introduced into the Cajun Creole cuisines of Louisiana the idea behind it is all the ingredients that you would normally eat with this gumbo are stuffed inside of that quail like normally you would eat rice with a gumbo right so we're stuffing this quail with the fillet rice the poached oyster the smoked andouille tableside that broth is poured over the quail and into the bowl so it's kind of a deconstructed reconstructed and then there's some other things going on you can really smell the the andouille sausage that that spikey flavors has come right out smokey oh my god the mouthfeel is sensational and you can really taste the pepper in this you can taste the onion it's amazing as somebody who's been reduced for that long yet still have those flavors so apparent it's pretty special hmm there's a viscosity to this thing there's like just coats your whole mouth with flavor it's amazing if that's all there was I would be delighted but there's a whole quail sitting in the soup so let's get down to business Wow it is so cute almost don't want to eat it almost don't wanna eat it they basically debone this whole quail there's a couple of there's a couple of bones up front and some in the back but I'm just gonna get in there right now look at that beautiful piece of quail meat lovely pink you mmm oh so perfectly cooked a lot of times because quail is so small it looks really nice on the outside then it's kind of shriveled and charred and sort of sad but this one is really quite pleasant I'm gonna trust me this stuffing now so this is deeply evocative of so many things that I've eaten nollans the sausage the gumbo itself the jambalaya but when you get that quail it's kind of smoky it's almost like barbecue and I guess that's a sausage sort of having its influence on it and look at that mother lode right there also made in-house so really this is artisanal as you can get Wow everything is perfectly cooked like nothing that the quail is like tender and supple just a hint of pink this sausage is like render but it's not overcooked I mean it's just oh and I'm getting that smokiness coming through this is really a pleasant dish alright I found the oyster so I win the prize maybe maybe the oyster is what kills you maybe if you don't eat the oyster it's not that buy gumbo let's find out anyway mmm what I find remarkable of this dish is that it's the clarity of flavor that voice that was stuffed in this thing roasted it's got this stuff all over it it's surrounded in shrimp but it's still tasted like an oyster you got that brightness out of it the same with the quail the same with the Unduli it's just the flavors are all there combined they're really profound but you can identify them is I listen to an orchestra but you can hear the separate instruments remarkable I kind of want to just keep being this so this is wrap this up I would encourage you to come down to nollans and definitely try death by gamma Steak Diane sauce it's the traditional red wine and and veal so supposedly named after the Roman goddess Diane correct goddess of the hunt


24 Comments

Todd Tomaszewski · May 15, 2019 at 1:04 pm

ain't nobody making a dark roux in 20 minutes. try again………..

Tristan Smith · May 15, 2019 at 1:04 pm

3:58 It bothers me that he holds the fork upside down. That might be a British thing though, not sure.

Sean C. · May 15, 2019 at 1:04 pm

That’s a pretty good price for that dish. Seems like fine dining to me.

Jobo · May 15, 2019 at 1:04 pm

Bring back Nick

SpicyHatred · May 15, 2019 at 1:04 pm

The moment I saw ‘gumbo’ in the title I knew ‘viscosity’ was gonna be used

Lin Sylar · May 15, 2019 at 1:04 pm

Can someone please tell me what accent does the host speaks? I don't think I caught a single "r" sound.

fauxbro1983 · May 15, 2019 at 1:04 pm

Damn thats alot of roux

Ha Gotcha · May 15, 2019 at 1:04 pm

i can't place your accent, where ya from?

Christopher Kelly · May 15, 2019 at 1:04 pm

In Other Words, The Filè Powder Was Stolen.

ErwinSchrodinger64 · May 15, 2019 at 1:04 pm

Went there once. Wasn't too impressed. I ordered a filet, believe it or not, it was tough and overcooked (no, not tough because it was overcooked). Surprisingly, because they have their own butchers. Their bone marrow, on the other hand, because of Eater, I tried it. The 1st three seconds of the bite, I didn't like, then, I understood why it's spread on crispy toast. They serve a black colored Grey Goose that was interesting… as in… it's worth the price to taste it.

Krister Kjørholt · May 15, 2019 at 1:04 pm

is $18 a lot?

Nathan Uhlir · May 15, 2019 at 1:04 pm

Vincent D’Nofrio in MIB early in the cockroach scene lol

through my eyes · May 15, 2019 at 1:04 pm

pink poultry, no

TIMOTHY · May 15, 2019 at 1:04 pm

Have made roux a thousand times and 20 minutes will not deliver a dark chocolate roux.

Ivan Sanchez · May 15, 2019 at 1:04 pm

3:10 do u even know the purpose of reduction, nick?

Rob C · May 15, 2019 at 1:04 pm

I want some of that!

Jared Chan · May 15, 2019 at 1:04 pm

extremely disturbed by the lack of funk

Kim Dahyun · May 15, 2019 at 1:04 pm

Yukihira!

Brandon Buehler · May 15, 2019 at 1:04 pm

The way this guy smells his food is a trip.

Nic Chauvin · May 15, 2019 at 1:04 pm

I know they're a really great restaurant, but pretending this this is gumbo of any sort is just asinine. The components of a gumbo are slow cooked together, so that they marry in the broth. This is just a stuffed quail with a little liquid poured on top. Cajun and Creole cooking is about making good food, not pretension. Also, where the hell is the okra?

Ricky Alvin · May 15, 2019 at 1:04 pm

Looks delicious. But that's not gumbo.

Steve Logan · May 15, 2019 at 1:04 pm

I am from rural kentucky, and we eat a lot of quail, we call them bobwhites, but same thing, i would eat there

Ben Lee · May 15, 2019 at 1:04 pm

Hehe, a group of friends and I visited this place not too long ago. Sat at the chef's table. Great food and ambiance!

Nate · May 15, 2019 at 1:04 pm

4:42

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *